The quick answer: Pity the peanut butter makers as they try to please the health-conscious public. First they drop HFCS, then trans fats, lower the salt, and now they search for a “natural” product. They should try Skip’s recommendation (below).
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How a Peanut Butter Was Named And I Became “Skip”
If a boy has the same given name as his father, he’s likely to get a nickname. For example, I was nicknamed Skippy by my grandmother and it stuck, shortened to Skip as I got older. Grandma never told me how she chose my name, but I think I know. At the time, there was a popular comic strip called “Skippy.”
The Skippy of the comic strip was a mischievous but lovable, all-American boy, wise beyond his years, given to philosophical observations. Frankly, that’s how I would describe myself today, though it makes the beautiful wife laugh.
In its time, Skippy was as popular as later characters like Peanuts or Calvin and Hobbes. There’s more to the story because a food product got its name from that comic strip—Skippy Peanut Butter—or at least used the name, which had been copyrighted. Which leads us to the topic of peanut butter, and trans fats.
Peanut Butter and Trans Fat
The problem with peanut butter, in the beginning, was oil separation. In the ‘20s, a California food chemist named Rosefield stopped separation by mixing in hydrogenated vegetable oil. Rosefield licensed his invention, to Peter Pan Peanut Butter, and then launched his own brand, Skippy Peanut Butter.
This resulted in the peanut butter you knew growing up—it didn’t separate, had a long shelf life, but was darned unhealthy. It took about 75 years for the public to become aware of the toxicity of hydrogenated trans fats in peanut butter.
Growing up, schoolmates often called me Skippy Peanut Butter. I’ve heard that a thousand times or more. Which clearly qualifies me to talk about today’s subject: healthy peanut butter.
Healthy Peanut Butter
What makes a healthy peanut butter? It’s pretty simple:
- Start with fresh peanuts (depending on storage conditions, older peanuts may contain aflatoxin, a carcinogen and mutagen from fungus growth).
- Follow the fiber>sugar rule (food products should contain more fiber than sugar).
- Use healthy—natural, minimally processed—oils (if oils are added).
While hanging around the PB aisle in the grocery store, a young mom picked up a jar of almond butter. Of course I asked her why and she explained she has a child in preschool and that all preschools forbid peanut butter sandwiches. It’s an interesting thought—the next generation is getting their start on almond butter.
In-store Peanut Butter
Some health food stores have grinders that let you make fresh peanut butter. Sounds like a good idea but there’s a problem: the freshness of the peanuts.
I like the way you can buy whole grains and legumes from bins in such stores but have you ever taken a close look at the nuts? Typically they’re rancid (by the action of oxygen in the air) and oxidized oils are toxic. Shelled nuts need to be refrigerated, or at least kept in airtight containers.
It may look funny, but I’ve opened the bin lids and sniffed the nuts in my local health food store. Anything with omega-3 fats, especially walnuts, typically smells rancid. The roasted peanuts (yes, they’re legumes, not nuts) are especially bad, in fact it’s hard to buy fresh peanuts. Check the ones at the ballpark—if they don’t pass the sniff test, give them to the loud, obnoxious guy behind you.
So fresh-ground, in-store peanut butter is a bad idea because the peanuts aren’t fresh. Every few years Consumer Reports tests peanut products for aflatoxin and the worst are always the in-store made peanut butters. There’s a government limit, 20 parts per billion (ppb), and the top selling prepared brands, like Skippy and Jif, have the lowest levels, around 1 ppb.
Healthy Peanut Butter
The challenge now is to prevent oil separation without adding trans fats. Stirring peanut butter to remix the oil is a pain and I usually spill some, which makes the BW frown. Now that people have wised up to trans fats, new ways are being used to prevent separation. One option is to do nothing and if you walk through the peanut butter aisle at your supermarket you can find brands with the oil sitting on top of the peanut butter. Here are options to stop separation:
Method #1: Mix in fully hydrogenated vegetable oils. Basically, when you hydrogenate unsaturated oil you make it more saturated, but you create partially saturated trans fats. If you continue to hydrogenate the oil it becomes fully saturated and few trans fats remain. This fully saturated oil is added to some brands of peanut butter, Skippy Creamy, Jif Creamy, and Peter Pan Peanut Butter (the latter containing both fully and partially hydrogenated oils) are examples.
I reject peanut butter with hydrogenated oils. Such oils are highly processed, beginning with petroleum solvent extraction of the oil from the seed, deodorization with blasts of superheated steam, and finally hydrogenation. Hydrogenation is done at temperatures between 500-1000 degrees F, by exposing the oil to a metallic catalyst (usually nickel) and bubbling hydrogen through it. It’s definitely a highly processed product.
Method #2: Mix in palm oil. Palm oil, rich in vitamins A and E, has been used for millennia around the world. Like olive oil, it comes from the flesh rather than the seed (unlike palm kernel oil) so is minimally processed, without use of solvent extraction. It’s a thick oil, so does a pretty good job of preventing oil separation in peanut butter, though not completely. I think palm oil is a good enough solution to separation.
Peanut butters titled “Natural” usually include some palm oil to prevent separation. The FDA requires that peanut butter be 90% peanuts so if more palm oil is used it must be called a spread. Whichever the name, I consider them healthy products, as long as added sugar isn’t greater than fiber. Warning: The FDA doesn’t regulate what “natural” means so you have to trust Food Inc not to fib.
Recommended (by Cook’s Illustrated taste test) brands:
- Jif Natural Creamy PB; ingredients—Roasted peanuts, sugar, 2% or less of palm oil, salt, molasses. The Cook’s Illustrated taste test ranked this the best non-hydrogenated PB (#2 rank overall).
- Skippy Natural Creamy PB; ingredients—Roasted peanuts, sugar, palm oil, and salt. Also recommended by Cook’s Illustrated, though in 5th place.
Method #3: Micro mill the peanuts to minimize separation.
This sounds a little like how milk is homogenized to keep cream from separating, so until they share more about their process, I’m uneasy that the fats aren’t damaged. In the homogenization of milk, the fats are so damaged they must be quickly pasteurized (cooked) to prevent spoilage. Both Trader Joe’s and Costco (Kirkland Signature brand) are in this category.
- Trader Joe’s Creamy Salted Peanut Butter uses unblanched peanuts. This means the fibrous husk on the shelled peanut isn’t removed so it’s the only brand with more fiber (3 gm) than sugar (1gm), The ingredient list is simple: Dry roasted peanuts, salt.
- Kirkland uses the sweeter Valencia peanut so there’s no added sugar. The ingredient list simply says: Roasted Valencia peanuts, sea salt.
Skip’s Ideal Peanut Butter
“Natural” is the future of peanut butter—nothing hydrogenated, perhaps a little palm or coconut oil to control separation. Right now I’m sticking with Skippy Natural Creamy PB.
But if I were to introduce a new brand, lets say Skip’s Homemade Peanut Butter, I’d make it with Valencia peanuts for natural sweetness, keep the husk on the peanut for more fiber, add a little healthy palm oil to minimize separation, and finish it off with a bit of molasses and sea salt. One more thing: a glass jar—I’m uneasy about chemical extraction from plastic containers. Funny that no one, to my knowledge, has offered this yet.
Please comment: What’s your favorite peanut butter.