Cured Meats
The quick answer: Besides eating meat sparingly, it’s a good idea to enjoy cured meats as an exception rather than a regular practice.
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Johanne’s Back
Generals who win great wars are often remembered with statues; not so much for the losing side. But it’s a special day when an ordinary man who simply lives a good life gets a statue. Take Johannes Huber, a founder of little Midway, Utah, for example. Johannes raised apples, wrote poems and hymns, taught choral music, and lived a quiet life. But we celebrate him as the great-grandfather of the beautiful wife.
So when we had to cut down an overgrown tree up in Midway, it only seemed proper to carve a statue of Johannes. We found an exceptional chainsaw artist, John Pettit, now known as the Famous Wood Carver. Time takes a toll, even of statues, so Johannes has been missing from his perch in our yard for a year or so while repairs were made, but he’s back. Check him out—7' tall, pretty big for the Swiss.
The Smell of Bacon
Before we condemn cured meats, I must make this disclosure: I love the smell and taste of bacon. This summer we had some great BLTs, with juicy tomatoes and fresh spinach on toasted whole wheat bread. We sometimes have bacon with a Saturday night omelet. And the beautiful wife makes a delicious spinach and bacon salad. Like most of you, we enjoy bacon.
We also like ham. You can enjoy several dinners and a bunch of sandwiches from one of those spiral-cut preserved hams, and then make a great split pea soup with the bone. (Check our recipe here.) Sometimes I slice a fresh pineapple to cover the ham and bake it in the oven. This keeps the ham from drying and the carmelized sugars taste great. I’d rather not think about life without cured meats.
Preserved Meats
Here’s the problem: Like humans, the pathogens—including botulism, Staph aureus, and the listeria family—also enjoy meat. They can be deadly but there’s a protection tested by time: preservation with nitrites. In olden times meat was cured with salt but the salt actually included nitrites. The nitrites were there because plants—rich in nitrogen, the source of nitrates and nitrites—decayed and were carried by water to the ocean. The time-tested use of sea salt in preserving meat was largely due to the nitrites.
A century ago nitrites were added to meat without proper limits. In 1926 the FDA set a nitrite/nitrate limit of 200 parts per million (ppm). Through continual progress, today the actual content has been significantly reduced. Still, it should be remembered that nitrite is a toxin—a few grams taken directly can be fatal.
Pregnant women—some authorities recommend—should avoid, or at least minimize, cured meats.
Nitrites are carcinogens—remember the discovery of nitrosamines in the ‘70s? Though the exact mechanism is unknown, there does seem to be a cancer risk with nitrates and nitrites. There is also a greater risk for asthma (short term), hypertension and diabetes. Risky stuff.
Some preserved meats, like those labeled organic, don’t show nitrites or nitrates on the label, but unless refrigerated they all contain nitrites in some form. For example, nitrates can be slipped in via nitrogen-rich plants, like celery, shown as added flavors in the ingredient list.
A 2009 Texas A & M study looked at cured meat around the country, including naturally (sometimes called organically) preserved meats. Bottom line: They all include nitrates and/or nitrites—about 37.1 and 4.5 ppm respectively. Nitrates, by bacterial action, become nitrites. Nitrite effectiveness can be improved by adding salt or vitamin C, which allows a reduction.
The Lunch Problem
What about the meat sandwich so common in our lunch bags? This was a big source of comments when we discussed cured meats a year ago. Here are some alternative ideas to a steady diet of cured meat sandwiches:
- Tuna fish is probably the healthiest meat choice, unless you like sardine sandwiches. I like my tuna with a lot of chopped celery, pickle relish, and some chopped green onion. If you add some dark greens, like spinach, and use whole wheat bread, you’ve got a pretty healthy meal.
- The soup and salad combos available at most lunch places are a good alternative to the cured meat sandwich.
- Try a boiled egg or (canned) chicken salad sandwich, with emphasis on the salad ingredients.
- Bring leftovers from home in a microwaveable plastic container—this is probably the best possible lunch value.
- Limit your ham and cheese on rye, or whatever cured meat you prefer, to once a week. When you have a BLT, add lots of tomato and dark greens.
Healthy Change
Healthy Change #48: Enjoy processed meats as an exception, rather than a regular practice.
This completes our meat-related Healthy Changes for the year. There's more to talk about, like how to buy affordable pastured meat from healthy animals, but these four changes make a good start:
Healthy Change #9: Define as a family a “sparing” amount of meat and get most of your protein from plants. To build support, this Healthy Change required family discussion and agreement. The basic idea was to get about 1/3 of your protein from meat, the rest from plant sources.
Healthy Change #22: Until better milk is available, drink sparingly, if at all. Dairy is a big part of our animal product intake and milk is the most common form. Enjoy milk if you choose, but drink it sparingly.
Healthy Change #35: Include long chain omega-3s (EPA and DHA) in your meal most days. The brain- and eye-healthy omega-3 fats in the long-chain form are found in animal products, especially cold-water fish.
Please Comment: Share your best ideas for lunches that don’t depend on cured meats. When you do use cured meats, get the maximum mileage—for example, use bacon to flavor a spinach-egg salad, or a pot of baked beans. Got a recipe to share?